The base that comes in the Starlink kit is not going to be a permanent solution for most folks. How you end up mounting your dish will depend on many factors, including obstructions, roof angle, and budget.
In this article, we will guide you through the various Starlink mounting options. We will also take a look at various mounts, including official Starlink products and third party products.
Note: This article may contain affiliate links for the products mentioned
Table of Contents
Where are your obstructions?
The very first factor to consider is whether you have obstructions at your desired mounting location. Obstructions can be anything that blocks a clear view of the sky in the direction of the Starlink satellites. In most cases, this will be tree’s. Utility poles and other buildings could also obstruct the view of the sky.
How to check for obstructions
The Starlink app allows you to view details about obstructions in two ways. First, you can use your phone camera to search for potential obstructions. Stand in the area where you want to mount Starlink, open the app, and use the obstruction finder to see if Starlink has a clear view of the sky. This will give you a general idea about obstructions in that location.
The second method: If possible, set up your dish with the included tripod mount in a suitable area around where you think you would like to permanently mount it. Allow the app to collect data for at least 12 hours, and then check back later to see how your view is. Check the table below to see which kinds of mounts will be best for you based on how obstructed the view is from your test mounting location:
| Obstructions | Solution |
| No obstructions after 12 hours | Great! You’ve found a good location. Proceed to pick the mount type that works best for that location |
| Some obstruction time after 12 hours | The dish will have to either be mounted higher, or further away from the obstructions. Try it at your roof’s peak. Or move it to the other side of the roof away from tall objects |
| A lot of obstruction time after 12 hours | If you have a lot of tall tree’s and the peak of your roof isn’t high enough, you’ll need to go higher. An extension pole or even a dedicated tower might be necessary |
Types of mounts that work with Starlink
Once you’ve found a suitable location for your Starlink dish that is free of obstructions according to the Starlink app, you can proceed to picking a mount for a permanent installation. In this section we will cover the various Starlink mounting options.
The structure you will be mounting to will determine what type of mount you need. For example, if you want to install on an exterior wall, an adjustable J-Mount or Starlink Wall Mount would be appropriate. For a roof installation, a Flashing Mount might be the best option.
J-Mount – the versatile mounting option
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One of the best mounting solutions for Starlink is the J-Mount. They are widely available, affordable, and extremely versatile. In fact, you might even already have a J-Mount from another satellite service like Dish Network. You’ll want a J-Mount that has a pipe diameter of around 1.5 inches to use with Starlink, such as the Winegard DS2000A that is pictured above.
The J-Mount solution requires some minor modification to connect with the Starlink mounting tube, depending on which one you buy. The easiest way is to use a mount adapter, like the Winegard Universal Antenna Mount Adapter pictured above.
Depending on the inside diameter of your J-Mount, you might need some spacer material or a bolt to fully secure the Starlink mast. Electrical tape will work just fine.
J-Mount is good for: Eave/fascia, roof, exterior wall. Extremely flexible solution. Affordable.
Might not be suitable for: Areas with a lot of obstructions. The typical height of a J-Mount is 2-4 feet, so if you need more height beyond the top of your roof, the J-Mount might not be the best option.
Related: Guide To Using A J Mount With Starlink
Flashing Mount – professional looking Starlink roof mount
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The roof is a common place that people will install their Starlink dish. If you want a professional and worry-free roof install, consider a Flashing Mount. A Flashing Mount installs under the top layer of shingles and secures to your roof structure for a very strong and leak-free solution. Flashing Mount installations will require not only the Flashing Mount itself, but also an aftermarket J-Mount or Starlink Pivot Mount in order to secure the dish to the Flashing Mount.
Starlink sells their own Flashing Mount, but you can also find aftermarket products, like the CommDeck Satellite Mounting System pictured above, on Amazon.
Flashing Mount is good for: Roof installations. High rain/snow locations where roof leaks might be a concern. Clean, professional look.
Might not be suitable for: Roofs that aren’t covered with shingles. Installation is more complex. More expensive than other options.
Non-Penetrating Roof Mount – a permanent installation without drilling
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For various reasons, some folks will not want to secure a mount to the roof structure. That’s where a Non-Penetrating Roof Mount comes in. Commonly known as a ridge line mount, these mounts are held down with weights (sand bags, concrete blocks, etc) and not fastened to the roof.
For installations on the ridge line, go with the EZ PNP Non-Penetrating Antenna Mast Peak Roof Mount. This mount doesn’t come with any type of mast, so you’ll need a J-Mount or some other type of mount to attach to it. The Winegard DS2000A is our favorite. This ridge line mount is secured with standard concrete blocks.
The Easy-Up EZ NP-30-166 Non-Penetrating Roof Mount is ideal for flat roofs. It includes a 1.66″ OD mast, so you’ll just need to slide the Starlink mast in, and secure with U-bolts, bolts, or some other type of fastener. You can anchor down this mount using standard concrete blocks.
To protect your roof from the metal mount, consider purchasing a protective pitch pad that sits under the mount.
Non-Penetrating Roof Mount is good for: Situations where you don’t want to fasten to the roof structure. You can easily move this mount around on the roof if you need flexibility in the future.
Might not be suitable for: This mount definitely stands out on your roof, as it will be held down with concrete blocks or other heavy items. Depending on how much weight you use, wind might be an issue since it is not fastened down.
Tower Mount – when your roof or wall isn’t suitable
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In some circumstances people might need to mount their Starlink dish far away from their home to be clear of obstructions. In other circumstances a dedicated tower might be needed to get the vertical height necessary to clear tree’s around the house. Tower Mount’s offer a solution for these tough circumstances.
Tower Mount is good for: Getting above or away from obstructions. When you can’t mount to your roof or structure.
Might not be suitable for: Adding a tower on your property is a big undertaking and is more complex and expensive than other mounting options. This is a more custom installation solution that will require more hardware modification than other options.
The Rohn 30′ Tower shown above would need to be combined with a pipe adapter to fit the Starlink mast diameter.
Pole Mount – good for open spaces
If you don’t have a lot of trees and other obstructions around your house, you might be able to get away with mounting the Starlink dish on a pole or post in your yard. Pole Mount’s can also be a great option if you have an open area near your house that doesn’t have as much tree coverage.
Starlink sells a Pole Mount in their shop. Alternatively, you could supply your own 1.5″ or 2″ diameter pole, and use a pipe adapter or U-bolts to secure Starlink to it. Starlink sells a pipe adapter that allows you to use your own pole/mast up to 2.5 inches.
Pole Mount is good for: When you don’t want to mount to your roof or house, or need to get Starlink into an open area away from your home.
Might not be suitable for: Areas with lots of trees. Also, pole mounts require a bit more work that most other mounting options. The pole needs to be buried, and you’ll have to bury the Starlink cable in conduit or find another way to safely route it inside your home.
Tripod Mount – permanent or temporary
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If you want to install your Starlink dish on a flat surface, but need more height than a J-Mount provides, consider using something like this Heavy-Duty Tripod Base. A Tripod Mount is useful for both temporary and permanent installations. You can stake the tripod directly into the earth for a stable temporary mount. Or perhaps you have a flat roof that you can permanently secure it to.
The Tripod Mount pictured above comes included with a mast that will accept the Starlink dish mast with a bit of modification (using pole clamps or drilling holes for bolts). You can also supply your own mast of any length you require, up to 2 inches outside diameter.
Tripod Mount is good for: Temporary or permanent installations on flat surfaces
Might not be suitable for: Takes up a bit of space. Unless you anchor the Tripod Mount, there is a risk of it tipping over in windy conditions
Chimney Mount – using an existing structure for more height
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For installations where you might need more height than the roof peak offers, or for those without shingle roofs, a Chimney Mount might be a good solution. Chimney Mount’s use your existing chimney to secure a pole for mounting the Starlink dish.
For the Chimney Mount Install Kit shown above, you will just need to supply a mast that is up to 2″ OD. It’s also a good idea to measure the diameter of your chimney to make sure the straps are long enough.
To make installation a breeze, be sure to pick up the Starlink pipe adapter, which will adapt any existing pole/mast up to 2.5″ OD to the Starlink dish.
Chimney Mount is good for: When you need some extra height. When you don’t have shingles, or if you have a roof structure or material that doesn’t allow traditional installations.
Might not be suitable for: Not all chimney types are compatible with chimney mount kits. The installation can be a bit more involved than other options.
Starlink RV – mounting options to consider
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If you are using Starlink on your RV, van, truck, etc., there are many ways to permanently mount the dish. Many RV’s have some kind of existing mast or pole that you can use. In that case, all you would need is the Starlink pipe adapter (pictured above), which can be used to mount the Starlink dish to any mast/pole up to 2.5″ in diameter.
You can also use something like the UngSung Double Antenna Mast to Mast Clamp to clamp the Starlink dish directly to an existing pole/mast.
The Starlink Base – for temporary installations, flat roofs, and more
The base that comes with your Starlink kit can be used as a permanent mount if you have a suitable mounting location. For example, a flat roof that is free from obstructions. The base can also be used if you plan to keep your installation temporary and movable.
Included Starlink Base is good for: No cost as it is included in your kit. Can be secured to a structure thanks to pre-drilled mounting holes on the legs.
Might not be suitable for: Pitched roofs. Areas with obstructions.
Other mounting options to consider
If none of the above work for your situation, there are many different custom options available. With a pipe adapter or the right size piping, the Starlink dish can be attached to a variety of structures in a variety of ways. If you are a do-it-yourself type of person with extra materials laying around, it might be worth designing your own mounting solution using a variety of brackets and pipe that can be sourced from the hardware store.
See also: Reference guide to all the Starlink measurements/dimensions
I just ordered an Starlink Ground Pole mount to use with the HP array. Is there any tip how to connect the cable to underground conduit (eg HydroMaxx 2-in x 50-ft Non-Metal Liquid-tight Conduit) mainly what connections to use to seal it. The snow will most likely cover half of the Pole
I’d like to utilize an existing tv antenna with tripod on my roof. If I replace the current 3 ft mast with the 8 ft Pole Mount, should there be enough separation for the new dish (5ft) ?? Is the Pole Mount suitable for a non-burial installation ??
I’m sure it would work fine for non-burial mount. At 8 ft, I would be worried about the strength, might need some guy lines to secure it at that height. The distance between the TV antenna and the dish should be sufficient.
Thanks for the great info! I’m curious how tall of a pole I can put on the peak of my roof and any advice around that. It seems the pole options are for ground or chimney mounts vs roof mounts. Trying to clear Doug fir and Ponderosa Pines that surround our home. What are the challenges of putting a tall pole on our roof? Wind? Lightning?
The challenges are the wind, lightning, and lack of structure to secure the longer pole. I wouldn’t want anything over several feet mounted to the roof. If you require a longer roof mounted pole, it would need to be secured with guy wires for stability. As long as the installer grounds the mast, lightening wouldn’t be that big of a concern. The Starlink would be damaged, but a properly grounded pole is what is needed for safety.
I have a metal shop 3,000 sq ft in size it is 25 ft from my home. Will a mesh system reach inside my shop?
It should be able to reach the 25 ft from your home. I would try to get the main router as close to the building as possible, but I don’t think you’ll have any issues.
Will the starlink long wall mount fit the same screw holes drilled for the starlink short wall mount? Also, is there a “pole extender” to get another few inches pole height?
I checked the installation details, and they do not provide any measurements on hole spacing. The mounting base does look different, so it’s likely the holes won’t line up perfectly. You’ll obviously be able to re-use one hole from the short wall mount. The other hole should be covered by the mount if it’s not the same pattern as the short wall mount, so I wouldn’t worry about it as long as you seal it before installing the new mount.
Starlink doesn’t have any type of extender for these mounts. Might consider an aftermarket J Mount if you need some additional height over what the Starlink mounts can provide.
I have the rectangular dish. My roof has a low pitch with a large eave overhang. In regard to having minimal obstructions, the peak of the roof above the eaves works. Unless there is something I’m missing, it seems like lag bolting or through bolting the base that came with the dish would work fine. Is there some reason it would not work?
As long as the mast is within 5 degrees of vertical, the standard base should be ok. Are you planning to bolt it right to the roof shingles? A J Mount would be another option if you need an adjustable angle. Starlink’s Pivot Mount is another similar option.
I would temporarily try the standard base, weighed down with some sand bags or something, to make sure everything will work ok without errors.
Thank you for this. We purchased the Starlink pole mount and want to attach it to our wooden fence – in case we need to move it in the future instead of cementing it into the ground. What’s the best way to do this?
Probably some U-bolts or a pole clamp that you can pick up at a hardware store, with lag bolts right into the wooden fence post.
Hi we have house and granny flat, what can I do to improve the signal rang of the modem to cover both as signal range on covers about 5 metres at moment
You could try a mesh system:
https://www.starlinkhardware.com/starlink-mesh-nodes-mesh-networks-made-easy/
how do i remove the existing legged factory Starlink mount to replace it with a wall mount. i see a button on the pole just above the legs but it doesn’t appear to do anything. How do i get the mount off?
Press the button and pull up on the Starling dish mast.
Is there any way to install starlink on the back of a big rig where a typical satellite tv antenna for big rigs goes? Or any way to install it on a rig so it’s permanent? If I put it out at the truck stop it will get stolen.
Is it typically a vertical pole that TV antennas will mount to on the back? There are plenty of ways to do it, but if I had a description of the existing hardware on the rig or a picture as an example, I could recommend some ideas.
Thanks for the info! Any ideas on extending the distance of the cable from the dish to the modem and or how far away the modem can be from where you use it? Thanks
Starlink sells is 150ft cable that can replace the 75ft cable. The connections are unique to Starlink, so aftermarket options don’t exist. 150ft is the maximum cable distance. The router coverage depends on a lot of factors, such as the materials your house is made of. In a wide open area, you’ll get a signal from the router from quite a bit away. With a lot of walls, metal, or concrete, Wifi signals don’t travel as far.
We just purchased our system yesterday and it doesn’t look like we will be receiving our kit until sometime next year. Is it a possibility of getting the 150 ft cable in place of the 75 ft cable for an upcharge?
The kit comes with the 75 ft cable as standard, and you can order the extra 150 ft cable from the Starlink shop.
Just got our 2nd gen dishy and it’s looing like our best option is to perch it up in one of our trees. Would love and tips/insights into mounting system suggestions! The plan currently is to take off the top 1/4 of a smaller Ponderosa then attach a pole to the tree extending it up between 5-10 feet above the (cut) top of the tree. Would love any thoughts or guidance!
These links have some ideas that can get you started:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Starlink/comments/lq9398/final_tree_mount_plan_i_think/
https://www.reddit.com/r/Starlink/comments/l9lfp9/obstruction_advice_tree_mount/
https://www.reddit.com/r/Starlink/comments/kdhzgr/final_mount_plans/
just got a gen. 2 Starlink dish, and have had a tough time trying to find a Ridgeline Non-penetrating roof mount for it. Unfortunately, just sticking it on a pole, will not comply with my HOA. 🙁 Any ideas?
I’ve updated the article to remove the obsolete Starlink ridge line mount. I replaced it with an aftermarket option that can be installed at the ridge, and weighed down with blocks. It doesn’t come with a mast, so you’ll also need a J-Mount or some kind of mount to attach to the ridge line mount base plate. Here it is:
https://amzn.to/3yYdwuL
I believe FCC law protects you from any HOA interference for any receive antenna. I could be wrong but as a broadcast engineer this has always been my understanding for conventional satellite dishes and even TV antennas.
Hi Noah,
Thanks for all the great info. We just received our Starlink yesterday. We are super excited about installing it. We thought it was going to be easier but it’s not. We live in a very rural place. Our home is not surrounded by trees, cables or buildings. My son climbed the ladder yesterday to the side of the roof. The message said it was a decent spot. Not sure if it says great or better spot. We currently have HughesNet, we had an old pole the technician used that pole. (We had our previous satellite internet attached to a huge beam on our deck.) So I am wondering can we use that pole? What can we use to secure it? It’s not to low for the Starlink satellite? If we do decided to secure it on our roof we are thinking right at the peak. But should we use the mount it came with? We have an old satellite still stuck to our beam can we use any of that stuff to secure the Starlink one? We get some pretty good winds and some snow. Please any help would be awesome. I don’t want to send it back.
If you have a pole from a previous satellite dish, that should work. It depends on the diameter of the pole. If it’s around 1.5 inches, the Starlink mast should slide right in. You’ll need U-bolts or some other type of clamp to secure it. If the pole is a larger diameter, you’ll need the Starlink pipe adapter:
https://shop.starlink.com/products/us-consumer-mount-pipeadapter-gen2
This adapter will allow you to mount to poles up to 2.5 inches in diameter.
Hi Noah – thanks for all the information, very helpful. I got the SL confirmation email but now am struggling on where I’ll put it; we live in a very wooded area with lots of tree obstructions. Additionally have a metal roof. I think chimney install might be best, but I’m concerned about heat, smoke, etc. as we have a wood burning fireplace that we use in the winter. Have you heard of that being an issue before? If not chimney, our metal roof has several good spots without obstructions but I’m hesitant to drill into the roof… Thanks again.
I wouldn’t recommend the chimney mount unless it’s a brick chimney. The heat/smoke shouldn’t be an issue as long as you can get a good distance away, like what is pictured above.
For a metal roof, one option would be magnets. If you can source some strong magnets, several people have been able to use the standard base with the magnets attached to the legs:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Starlink/comments/v7fzet/diy_metal_roof_mount_magnets/
https://www.reddit.com/r/Starlink/comments/u83c9e/dish_just_arrived_held_in_place_by_magnets_till/
Magnets! That’s a great move, thanks again Noah.
We have a new metal roof also and I love this idea, thanks.
The cable that’s hooked to the “dish” should be removable. Having to drill a 1 3/8 “ holes all over the place to route the cable is unacceptable. I am an electrician by trade and have to do installs all over the place and if other companies have a huge end that’s required, the other end is always much smaller to make installs easier. You just pull the cable from the other direction, then plug the small connector into the dish. I believe this cost me an extra 4 hours time just drilling holes in top plates in my home with a hole saw because a hole saw will only drill 1 1/2 deep before bottoming out. There are 4 1/2” of wood on interior walls in most houses for top plates. Makes it almost impossible for such big holes ……get the point? Jeff hill
The cable that hooks into the dish end on the rectangular dishes is indeed removable.
How do I release my gen 2 square dish from the tripod? I want to put the pipe adapter on it however I cant seem to remove it from the tripod
There are a couple of spring tabs near the bottom of the mast that need to be pressed in to release the dish from the base.
I am going to mount my starlink to my metal roof using the J-mount. What does J-Mount connect to? In the pictures there’s a small box between the mount & the roof. Where do I get that?
That’s a flashing mount. For a metal roof, that isn’t going to really work, since you don’t have shingles for the flashing to slide under. You can still use the J-Mount and just screw right into the rafters. Make sure to water seal any hardware and holes that you make in the roof, and check them periodically as weather will deteriorate the sealants. Ideally for just a J-Mount, you attach to the eave, exterior wall, or fascia to limit the possibility of roof leaks over time.
I made a video showing how the flashing mount works if you are interested in learning more about it, even though it won’t really apply to metal roofs: https://www.starlinkhardware.com/guide-to-using-a-j-mount-with-starlink/
Excellent informative website, thanks for the info and your efforts putting this together.
Hello we just got our Starlink and are planning our install. We think a wooden post would work best for us. We get very deep snow (often over 5 feet) so roof mount and Eve mount are out and we don’t want to cement in a pole. What would be best for securing our Gen 2 dish to the post?
Aftermarket J-mount, or the Starlink short wall mount. Either one you go with you just secure right into the post. I have a guide to using aftermarket J-mounts linked below, but go with OEM starlink mounts if you want the easiest plug and play and OEM fit an finish:
https://www.starlinkhardware.com/guide-to-using-a-j-mount-with-starlink/
https://shop.starlink.com/products/us-consumer-mount-shortwall-gen2
Hello– I have a 2nd gen and live in high desert, Spring winds, Summer monsoons, and very light snow. My roof is PBR metal panel. My eaves are 2ft out which seems a bit much for mounting on the structure. I’m afraid of the “no drill” clamps with 30-40 mph winds in Spring. The chimney mount is tempting but this is an old adobe structure and I’d be concerned about any additional strain on it during high winds. I found a great video on the Volcano Mount on the same PBR metal roofing, which seemed perfect– but it looks like Starlink stopped selling them. Right now I’m looking about 20ft away from the house at an electrical pole to possible attach there and just run the line to the house along the same bramble of electrical wires connecting from the pole–house. Do you have any thoughts or better recommendations than what I’m considering? Thank you!
Lot’s of people are using the standard mount and attaching strong magnets if your type of metal is suitable. That would be one way to go:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Starlink/comments/v7fzet/diy_metal_roof_mount_magnets/
https://www.reddit.com/r/Starlink/comments/u83c9e/dish_just_arrived_held_in_place_by_magnets_till/
Hey, does anyone know where we can purchase the Gen 1 Volcano Mounts now that Starlink isn’t selling them on their website?
They are still available:
https://shop.starlink.com/products/us-consumer-mount-volcano-grey
Can you recommend an after market kit or list of supplies to replace the cable routing kit? I have an instillation planned in a couple weeks and don’t think I can depend on getting the Starlink kit delivered before then.
Really just depends on what you are drilling through. For wood, a spade bit is what you want. Measure the diameter of the largest part of the cable you need to route through the hole, and size up an 1/8 inch or so to select the right size bit. To seal the hole, hardware stores sell several options of rubber grommets. The cable routing kit is a nice all in one solution, but most of that kit you won’t use. If you do your measurements and visit a hardware store, you’ll be able to find a few basic supplies to complete your own installation.
Thanks. I found some hard plastic grommets at Lowe’s that I think will work.
Am I able to purchase an extra Starlink RV “Base”? If so how and how much? I will install one Base on top of my Motor Home with the cable that comes in the kit. I have ordered a second cable to use if I wish to place the Dishy away from the Motor Home and I require a second Base.
I would reach out to Starlink customer support to ask about purchasing another base. I don’t see one in the online shop, but I’m sure they would send you another one if you ask. For support, access any of the support topics on the website or app, and then click the thumbs down icon on the answer. That takes you to an email form.
You would need solar + battery + inverter in order to provide enough stable 120V power to the router. The rectangular antenna version draws around 30-60 watts normally, and can go higher in snow/rain/ice. I’m not an expert by any means with solar, but I would think you would need at least double/triple that capacity in solar panels in order to provide some wiggle room when the sun is not directly on the panels, and for recharging the battery. Also, you would need the battery to provide power when the sun is down, or on rainy days.
Fortunately, solar is very scalable. So you could start off with a 100/150W panel and see where that gets you, and add more if needed.
As far as harming the antenna, I don’t think that is a concern. You don’t want to be powering it off all the time because it takes a few minutes for it to boot up and find a signal. And that uses more power than just operating normally. I think as long as you have a good battery + inverter that can consistently run it without power interruptions, you are good to go.
Hi Noah
Where I want to install my antenna does not have electrical service. No power. If you would like to use a solar panel for power. Do you know how many watts it would have to generate? Is it a solution that does not harm the proper functioning of the antenna?
Thanks
Non roof penetration Starlink two pole mount
2 10ft sections of 1 1/4 conduit
1 4 foot section of 3/4 conduit or pvc
1 1 1/4 conduit but connector
5 1 1/2 bolts
10 washers
5 lock nut washer
1 impact gun or some strength
1 Stand Off Wall Mast Mount – Y Style Antenna Mast Bracket – amazon
Note i used grade 5 bolts
The dish is fairly tight when dropped into the 1 1/4 inch pipe
first drill your hole for the dish I drilled below the bottom button
After mounting the pole, place a washer one each side of the bolt and tighten up, i didnt crimp this one, but if there is any wobble crank away
two Conduit poles together , i first drilled two holes about a foot apart on the 10 foot pipe, these will be below where your putting the but connector, start pilot hole then drill the holes bigger
Insert the 3/4 inch pipe and finish drilling the hole through the first one, place a bolt in the hole to keep it from moving and drill the second hole and place bolt washer then nut and washer in both holes
Take your impact gun and tighten theses up the strength here is slight crimping or bending the metal to eliminate any play in the 3/4 inch pipe.
Slide you but connector over the 3/4 pipe and onto the 1/4 pipe
Join the two pipes together and repeat the process on the pipe above
To strength but connector, I did this after it was installed
Drill a slight small hole than the screw through the mounting hole
Place some locktight on the screws and use a large phillips screw bit and your drill or impact and tighten it down, what i was looking for was for the screw to penetrate into the metal and add some extra holding power.
Now your ready to mount the pole using the Stand Off Wall Mast Mount – Y Style Antenna Mast Bracket
Do you have any photos?
Question:
What is the best mounting system for portability? Example: from roof to my trunk so
that I can take it camping with me.
Many thanks. We have the system and anxiously await your advice
The included stand is actually the best option in my opinion. Not having it permanently mounted gives you the ability to move the dish around to avoid obstructions at your camp site. If you had it mounted to your RV or vehicle, that limits how much it can be moved around to avoid trees. Also, it’s such an expensive device that it’s best to store it away in the cabin when driving, and then deploy at camp. Having it mounted to the roof exposes it to damage from rocks, etc.
That said, if you have a roof rack, that’s going to be your best option. There isn’t any accessory right now that is plug and play, but it would be possible to secure a J mount to the roof rack rail with some kind of fastener (u-bolts, for example). This would also give you the ability to lay the dish down flat for transport with a simple adjustment of a bolt.
I was hoping to find some recommendations for Vanlife usage. Ok to leave mounted while traveling if attached appropriately? Thinking of mounting to a roof rack but would like it as low profile as possible. Recommendations on hardware? Thank you
I think a J mount would be perfect for a van installation. If you want to install to a roof rack, you could potentially just use some U-bolts to secure the J mount to the rail. Or figure out some other type of bracket on the rail where you could bolt it to. Either way, a J mount would give you the ability to stow the dish during transit. J mounts have the ability to swivel at their base. With Starlink, you simply tap the “Stow” option in the app, and it moves the dish to a vertical stowed position. Then you would just need to loosen the J mount swivel bolt, lay it down as flat as possible, and then secure with a bungie cord or something for transit. When you arrive at your new spot, just reverse the steps.
We recommend the Wineguard J mounts, which I have reviewed and detailed in our Guide to Using a J Mount With Starlink. The video there should give you some idea what it would take to mount one to the roof rack.
I’m hoping more companies and maybe even Starlink start producing RV/van mounting accessories soon! Until then, it’s very much a DIY project.
Yep – just got one for my HughesNet pole. https://lonepinetechnology.com/ has one that should fit. Tom Mattheisen has been awesome.
Is there anyway it can be mounted on an abandoned satellite pole? We have a Direct TV satellite pole that is still located in my yard since we changed to Dish.
Yes, and how you do it depends on the diameter of the existing pole. If it’s around 1.5″, the Starlink dish mast should slide right in, and you can secure it with U-bolts. If it’s larger than 1.5″, you can use a pipe adapter. Starlink sells one on the website. Aftermarket options also exist, as Douglas pointed out in the comment below.
No problem at all. Our house had an old J-mounted DirecTV dish attached to the eaves when we bought it. I purchased the pipe adapter from Starlink, removed the old DirecTV antenna, attached the pipe adapter, and then inserted the SL dish mast. Was even able to thread the SL cable through the J-mount for a cleaner look.
For those having problems reconnecting the cable to the base of the antenna… take a 1/2″ wide sliver of a business card, fold it in half for a double-thickness 1/4″ wide sliver of paper. Put that under the cable as you slide it into the antenna base. You’ll be soooooooooo pissed at how easy it goes in.
Starlink’s engineering team apparently didn’t think correct alignment mattered.
Any Starlink mounts for attaching to a tree that you can recommend?
In general it isn’t recommended. Trees sway, it’s not a stable base for the dish. A tower would be better, but I understand that sometimes the trees are way taller than any tower, and a lot cheaper to just top and mount to also. Reddit has some good info:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Starlink/comments/lq9398/final_tree_mount_plan_i_think/
https://www.reddit.com/r/Starlink/comments/l9lfp9/obstruction_advice_tree_mount/
https://www.reddit.com/r/Starlink/comments/kdhzgr/final_mount_plans/
So it’s going to be kind of custom. Really depends on the diameter of the tree. But in general, I think it’s best to attach to the side of the tree like what is pictured in the installs on Reddit.
This is mine – I can fully recommend! no movement in the wind and survived the snow.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154890477365?mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&siteid=3&campid=5338919841&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1
Are the mounting options the same for the new square dish listed above or do they differ at all from the original dishy?
For aftermarket products, they will be the same. The round dish mast outside diameter is 1.4 inches and the square dish outside diameter is 1.3 inches. The square dish will be a little less snug in the universal 1.5 inch mounts like a J-Mount but will still work. Many people have decreased the gap with tape, and then secured the mast to the mount with a bolt or two for a really tight fit. Pipe clamps can also work.
For Starlink OEM mounts, they redesigned them for the slightly smaller mast diameter so I would recommend getting the correct version for a perfect fit.
Hello I got the StarLink package and put on the roof, tested the obstruction and it says it is very good clear view. Then I plugged in and it worked fine connection-wise to Internet. Then I unplugged (just to move the router/cable around) then replugged and now it is not able to find satellites, tried factory reset and all of that and still no diff. Please help thanks!
Disclaimer: This is a fan-made Starlink website, not affiliated with Starlink
I would try to leave everything unplugged for awhile. Go grab dinner or something and come back and then reconnect. Make sure the cables are plugged in where they should go. The dish should try to align itself. It could take awhile to establish a connection.
If that doesn’t do it, I highly recommend opening a support ticket with Starlink. You can go to their website https://www.Starlink.com or also contact support through the app. They will be able to help you out.
I have 2homes on my land,can this app furish 2home on one router or do I need two kits,please send info
Disclaimer: This is a fan-made Starlink website, not affiliated with Starlink
If you have two buildings at the service address, you could set it up in a number of ways. How far apart are the buildings? If it’s within a reasonable distance, you could connect the buildings with a buried cable. You would need to set up a basic home network with an unmanaged switch and extra wireless access points to cover both buildings. The Starlink router could live at one of the buildings to serve both. If you wanted the networks to be separate, that is more complicated but doable. There are also powerful wireless systems that can basically extend your Starlink wifi signal to another building. Lot’s of ways to go about it depending on distance and whether or not you want both homes to share one network or not.
Hi
I need some help on gen 2 dish from starlink. I cannot get my cable to connect to my dish. Brand new. It was plugged in and working for my temp spot. I then took out cable to rerun wire and it will not plug back in.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
It sounds like the connector is possible bent? Can you see any of the pins or metal on either connection side that might be bent? If that isn’t it, your best bet would be to contact Starlink using the Support page on the website or in the app.
Ok
Thank you
I agree something must be bent. Just can’t see it.
I been trying starlink since Sunday and no response.
I will keep trying them
Thank you