The base that comes in the Starlink kit is not going to be a permanent solution for most folks. How you end up mounting your dish will depend on many factors, including obstructions, roof angle, and budget.
In this article, we will guide you through the various Starlink mounting options. We will also take a look at various mounts, including official Starlink products and third party products.
Note: This article may contain affiliate links for the products mentioned
Where are your obstructions?
The very first factor to consider is whether you have obstructions at your desired mounting location. Obstructions can be anything that blocks a clear view of the sky in the direction of the Starlink satellites. In most cases, this will be tree’s. Utility poles and other buildings could also obstruct the view of the sky.
How to check for obstructions
The Starlink app allows you to view details about obstructions in two ways. First, you can use your phone camera to search for potential obstructions. Stand in the area where you want to mount Starlink, open the app, and use the obstruction finder to see if Starlink has a clear view of the sky. This will give you a general idea about obstructions in that location.
The second method: If possible, set up your dish with the included tripod mount in a suitable area around where you think you would like to permanently mount it. Allow the app to collect data for at least 12 hours, and then check back later to see how your view is. Check the table below to see which kinds of mounts will be best for you based on how obstructed the view is from your test mounting location:
| Obstructions | Solution |
| No obstructions after 12 hours | Great! You’ve found a good location. Proceed to pick the mount type that works best for that location |
| Some obstruction time after 12 hours | The dish will have to either be mounted higher, or further away from the obstructions. Try it at your roof’s peak. Or move it to the other side of the roof away from tall objects |
| A lot of obstruction time after 12 hours | If you have a lot of tall tree’s and the peak of your roof isn’t high enough, you’ll need to go higher. An extension pole or even a dedicated tower might be necessary |
Types of mounts that work with Starlink
Once you’ve found a suitable location for your Starlink dish that is free of obstructions according to the Starlink app, you can proceed to picking a mount for a permanent installation. In this section we will cover the various Starlink mounting options.
The structure you will be mounting to will determine what type of mount you need. For example, if you want to install on an exterior wall, an adjustable J-Mount or Starlink Wall Mount would be appropriate. For a roof installation, a Flashing Mount might be the best option.
J-Mount – the versatile mounting option
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One of the best mounting solutions for Starlink is the J-Mount. They are widely available, affordable, and extremely versatile. In fact, you might even already have a J-Mount from another satellite service like Dish Network. You’ll want a J-Mount that has a pipe diameter of around 1.5 inches to use with Starlink, such as the Winegard DS2000A that is pictured above.
The J-Mount solution requires some minor modification to connect with the Starlink mounting tube, depending on which one you buy. The easiest way is to use a mount adapter, like the Winegard Universal Antenna Mount Adapter pictured above.
Depending on the inside diameter of your J-Mount, you might need some spacer material or a bolt to fully secure the Starlink mast. Electrical tape will work just fine.
J-Mount is good for: Eave/fascia, roof, exterior wall. Extremely flexible solution. Affordable.
Might not be suitable for: Areas with a lot of obstructions. The typical height of a J-Mount is 2-4 feet, so if you need more height beyond the top of your roof, the J-Mount might not be the best option.
Related: Guide To Using A J Mount With Starlink
Flashing Mount – professional looking Starlink roof mount
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The roof is a common place that people will install their Starlink dish. If you want a professional and worry-free roof install, consider a Flashing Mount. A Flashing Mount installs under the top layer of shingles and secures to your roof structure for a very strong and leak-free solution. Flashing Mount installations will require not only the Flashing Mount itself, but also an aftermarket J-Mount or Starlink Pivot Mount in order to secure the dish to the Flashing Mount.
Starlink sells their own Flashing Mount, but you can also find aftermarket products, like the CommDeck Satellite Mounting System pictured above, on Amazon.
Flashing Mount is good for: Roof installations. High rain/snow locations where roof leaks might be a concern. Clean, professional look.
Might not be suitable for: Roofs that aren’t covered with shingles. Installation is more complex. More expensive than other options.
Non-Penetrating Roof Mount – a permanent installation without drilling
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For various reasons, some folks will not want to secure a mount to the roof structure. That’s where a Non-Penetrating Roof Mount comes in. Commonly known as a ridgeline mount, these mounts are held down with weights (sand bags, concrete blocks, etc) and not fastened to the roof.
For installations on the ridge line, check out the Starlink Ridgeline Mount Kit, pictured above. This official Starlink mount comes with everything needed, including the weights. It can be adjusted to any angle, and even works on flat roofs. If you prefer an aftermarket solution, or have a round dish, go with the EZ PNP Non-Penetrating Antenna Mast Peak Roof Mount. This mount doesn’t come with any type of mast, so you’ll need a J-Mount or some other type of mount to attach to it. The Winegard DS2000A is our favorite. This ridge line mount is secured with standard concrete blocks.
The Easy-Up EZ NP-30-166 Non-Penetrating Roof Mount is ideal for flat roofs. It includes a 1.66″ OD mast, so you’ll just need to slide the Starlink mast in, and secure with U-bolts, bolts, or some other type of fastener. You can anchor down this mount using standard concrete blocks.
Non-Penetrating Roof Mount is good for: Situations where you don’t want to fasten to the roof structure. You can easily move this mount around on the roof if you need flexibility in the future.
Might not be suitable for: This mount definitely stands out on your roof, as it will be held down with concrete blocks or other heavy items. Depending on how much weight you use, wind might be an issue since it is not fastened down.
Tower Mount – when your roof or wall isn’t suitable
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In some circumstances people might need to mount their Starlink dish far away from their home to be clear of obstructions. In other circumstances a dedicated tower might be needed to get the vertical height necessary to clear tree’s around the house. Tower Mount’s offer a solution for these tough circumstances.
Tower Mount is good for: Getting above or away from obstructions. When you can’t mount to your roof or structure.
Might not be suitable for: Adding a tower on your property is a big undertaking and is more complex and expensive than other mounting options. This is a more custom installation solution that will require more hardware modification than other options.
The Rohn 30′ Tower shown above would need to be combined with a pipe adapter to fit the Starlink mast diameter.
Pole Mount – good for open spaces
If you don’t have a lot of trees and other obstructions around your house, you might be able to get away with mounting the Starlink dish on a pole or post in your yard. Pole Mount’s can also be a great option if you have an open area near your house that doesn’t have as much tree coverage.
Starlink sells a Pole Mount in their shop. Alternatively, you could supply your own 1.5″ or 2″ diameter pole, and use a pipe adapter or U-bolts to secure Starlink to it. Starlink sells a pipe adapter that allows you to use your own pole/mast up to 2.5 inches.
Pole Mount is good for: When you don’t want to mount to your roof or house, or need to get Starlink into an open area away from your home.
Might not be suitable for: Areas with lots of trees. Also, pole mounts require a bit more work that most other mounting options. The pole needs to be buried, and you’ll have to bury the Starlink cable in conduit or find another way to safely route it inside your home.
Tripod Mount – permanent or temporary
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If you want to install your Starlink dish on a flat surface, but need more height than a J-Mount provides, consider using something like this Heavy-Duty Tripod Base. A Tripod Mount is useful for both temporary and permanent installations. You can stake the tripod directly into the earth for a stable temporary mount. Or perhaps you have a flat roof that you can permanently secure it to.
The Tripod Mount pictured above comes included with a mast that will accept the Starlink dish mast with a bit of modification (using pole clamps or drilling holes for bolts). You can also supply your own mast of any length you require, up to 2 inches outside diameter.
Tripod Mount is good for: Temporary or permanent installations on flat surfaces
Might not be suitable for: Takes up a bit of space. Unless you anchor the Tripod Mount, there is a risk of it tipping over in windy conditions
Chimney Mount – using an existing structure for more height
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For installations where you might need more height than the roof peak offers, or for those without shingle roofs, a Chimney Mount might be a good solution. Chimney Mount’s use your existing chimney to secure a pole for mounting the Starlink dish.
For the Chimney Mount Install Kit shown above, you will just need to supply a mast that is up to 2″ OD. It’s also a good idea to measure the diameter of your chimney to make sure the straps are long enough.
To make installation a breeze, be sure to pick up the Starlink pipe adapter, which will adapt any existing pole/mast up to 2.5″ OD to the Starlink dish.
Chimney Mount is good for: When you need some extra height. When you don’t have shingles, or if you have a roof structure or material that doesn’t allow traditional installations.
Might not be suitable for: Not all chimney types are compatible with chimney mount kits. The installation can be a bit more involved than other options.
Starlink RV – mounting options to consider
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If you are using Starlink on your RV, van, truck, etc., there are many ways to permanently mount the dish. Many RV’s have some kind of existing mast or pole that you can use. In that case, all you would need is the Starlink pipe adapter (pictured above), which can be used to mount the Starlink dish to any mast/pole up to 2.5″ in diameter.
You can also use something like the UngSung Double Antenna Mast to Mast Clamp to clamp the Starlink dish directly to an existing pole/mast.
The Starlink Base – for temporary installations, flat roofs, and more
The base that comes with your Starlink kit can be used as a permanent mount if you have a suitable mounting location. For example, a flat roof that is free from obstructions. The base can also be used if you plan to keep your installation temporary and movable.
Included Starlink Base is good for: No cost as it is included in your kit. Can be secured to a structure thanks to pre-drilled mounting holes on the legs.
Might not be suitable for: Pitched roofs. Areas with obstructions.
Other mounting options to consider
If none of the above work for your situation, there are many different custom options available. With a pipe adapter or the right size piping, the Starlink dish can be attached to a variety of structures in a variety of ways. If you are a do-it-yourself type of person with extra materials laying around, it might be worth designing your own mounting solution using a variety of brackets and pipe that can be sourced from the hardware store.
See also: Reference guide to all the Starlink measurements/dimensions
I will likely be getting a starlink this summer for use in a remote and heavily wooded area. We do however have power. We probably would mount the starlink to a pole. I’m researching two things. How do try to verify where to place the pole (again tall trees all around) to ensure I get good signal. Second. Once I have a pole location, how should grounding work? The poll itself is grounded? An elevated starlink is possible lightning target I would think
You can use the app to check for obstructions in a specific spot, but it would be hard to check at any significant height. You can ground the pole, but there really isn’t any way to ground the Starlink dish without modification to the cable, which wouldn’t be supported by the Starlink warranty. Starlink says that the grounding through the AC power cord is code compliant.
great thank. Until i came to this site (and I have more reading here to do) I was thinking stand alone pole (like a flag pole type of thing) But maybe a poll mounted on upper floor of that house that would allow starlink to be proud of the roofline. That might work. As for grounding good answer. makes sense, glad I asked though.
I see info on on the 75 vs 150 cable. Until the house is built I dont really have any sense what sort of length. I presume there is no noticeable signal loss 75 vs 150. Is that an issue if you needed to go above 150, to say 200 (assuming such a cable could be found)
Signal loss isn’t a concern between 75 and 150 ft. 150 ft is the maximum length cable that Starlink makes.
Hi Noah, I was just told that the router shouldn’t be close to other electric devices ie, I shouldn’t place it beside a fridge, freezer, tv, computer etc. If this is correct, how much distance from other electric devices is best?
It’s best that they aren’t right next to other electronics that could cause interference. Give at least several feet of space.
I’m in country Australia and have been reading your information on installing Starlink. I think I can set up a pole for the dish. The pole would be attached to the side of the house. I was going to use one of the many poles here but then I read that the top of the pole should be sealed. Is this essential?
I have terrible satellite internet, mobile phone and TV reception.
I don’t think it’s essential, depending on how you mount the Starlink dish. If you use the Starlink Pipe Adapter, the top of the pole is covered anyway by the adapter.
Do I need to use the pipe adapter?
The pipe adapter makes it easy to adapt any pole up to 2.5″ to the Starlink dish perfectly. You don’t need to use it, you can use other types of clamps which would be a DIY solution.
can it be mounted upside down on a soffit?
The dish mast has to be upright and vertical.
I have a Dish satellite on a J mount on a pole next to my house. Could I replace my Dish satellite with the Skylink? Thanks
You should be able to. If the J mount has a 1.5″ diameter, the Starlink mast should fit and just need to be clamped down somehow. If it’s a larger J mount, you can use the Starlink Pipe Adapter to make the connection.
Does the ground pole mount fit into the base that comes with the dish, I know the top end of pole clicks onto the dish and the other end is buried, my question is does the end you bury fit the base that comes with the dish?
No, the ground pole outside diameter is larger than the inside diameter of the standard mounting base.
We just purchased the Starlink RV and plan to use it as our primary unit at our home and since we camp a lot, take it with us. Is there a quick disconnect mount for when we use it at our primary residence and then just easily disconnect it to take it with us when we go camping? If not, what do you suggest? We have no obstructions at all around us (we live on a few acres, and there are not many trees near us). Thank you!
If you don’t have trees around your house, I’d recommend something like the Starlink Pole Mount. If you plan to split usage between home and RV, you will want the dish in an easily accessible location. Roof mounting is ideal for clearing tree tops, but if you don’t have trees, you can install a Pole Mount in the ground near your house. The dish just locks into the mounts with a push tab, so removing it is as easy as pushing in a button.
I would also recommend purchasing an additional cable and router. Install one cable and router permanently in the home, and the other set in the RV. That way, when you want to go, you just need to grab the dish, unplug the cables, and go. Use the included base as your RV mount. Just stick it on top of the RV when parked, or in a clearing if there are lots of trees around the site.
What is the minimum elevation angle above the horizon that is required for Starlink to get reception? Also, does it need to point exactly O° or is there a range? We live near Albuquerque New Mexico.
Thanks
The dish self aligns, there is no user adjustment of the angle. In order to check a location, you can either use the obstruction checker in the app, or temporarily install the dish and let it collect 12 hours worth of data on obstructions. The antenna itself has about 100 degrees field of view when stationary. So even in a vertical orientation, you would need clear sky about 50 degrees from vertical in all directions. Right now, the antennas mainly point north, but obstructions from any direction can cause issues.
I just ordered an Starlink Ground Pole mount to use with the HP array. Is there any tip how to connect the cable to underground conduit (eg HydroMaxx 2-in x 50-ft Non-Metal Liquid-tight Conduit) mainly what connections to use to seal it. The snow will most likely cover half of the Pole
I would run the conduit up the side of the pole to a junction box near the top. Then run the cable into the box with rubber grommets to help seal out water. If you put them on the bottom side of the box with a drip loop on the cable, that should prevent any moisture from getting in. That way the entire cable up until near the dish is protected from the snow/water.
I am installing on to a cypress post. I am wanting to seal the buried SL cable which is in conduit so moisture doesn’t go in there. So if I bring the cable up the post in 32mm conduit, would the conduit feed through a rubber grommet into the bottom of the junction box?
Would the cable then come out the bottom through a second rubber grommet hole?
And then the drip loop go after this once out of the junction box further on towards the dish . Also the rubber grommet would need to have a big hole to get the connector plug through, so wouldn’t moisture likely get into the junction box as a result?
There are lots of ways to do it, but I wouldn’t worry so much about the conduit being 100% sealed. As long as rain can’t get in you are going to be ok up on a post. Your plan sounds good, you would have a junction box with the entry point from the dish on the bottom, sealed as best you can with a rubber grommet. Then the conduit would exit from another hole on the junction box, and would be sealed via a thread, compression, etc.
Thanks for your response. I notice some people when installing have run the SL cable down the centre (interior) of the pole they are mounting on. Others appear to have it loose coming out over the outside of the pole, (or adapter mount on pole). Is there a correct way or will either be ok do you think? The cable would be much more exposed to heat and frost if outside the pole, one would think? Thanks.
Either way is fine. The only difference is if the cable is routed down through the mounting base or not. The connector itself is located within the mast.
I’d like to utilize an existing tv antenna with tripod on my roof. If I replace the current 3 ft mast with the 8 ft Pole Mount, should there be enough separation for the new dish (5ft) ?? Is the Pole Mount suitable for a non-burial installation ??
I’m sure it would work fine for non-burial mount. At 8 ft, I would be worried about the strength, might need some guy lines to secure it at that height. The distance between the TV antenna and the dish should be sufficient.
Thanks for the great info! I’m curious how tall of a pole I can put on the peak of my roof and any advice around that. It seems the pole options are for ground or chimney mounts vs roof mounts. Trying to clear Doug fir and Ponderosa Pines that surround our home. What are the challenges of putting a tall pole on our roof? Wind? Lightning?
The challenges are the wind, lightning, and lack of structure to secure the longer pole. I wouldn’t want anything over several feet mounted to the roof. If you require a longer roof mounted pole, it would need to be secured with guy wires for stability. As long as the installer grounds the mast, lightening wouldn’t be that big of a concern. The Starlink would be damaged, but a properly grounded pole is what is needed for safety.
What did you end up deciding? We have heavily wooded property far north in the UP. The house being build will be in the trees, and the trees will most assuredly be taller than the home. Looking straight up we’ll be ok. I am very uncertain about 50 degrees either side of vertical. I would hate to drop all the money on SL only to find my reception is poor.
I have a metal shop 3,000 sq ft in size it is 25 ft from my home. Will a mesh system reach inside my shop?
It should be able to reach the 25 ft from your home. I would try to get the main router as close to the building as possible, but I don’t think you’ll have any issues.
Will the starlink long wall mount fit the same screw holes drilled for the starlink short wall mount? Also, is there a “pole extender” to get another few inches pole height?
I checked the installation details, and they do not provide any measurements on hole spacing. The mounting base does look different, so it’s likely the holes won’t line up perfectly. You’ll obviously be able to re-use one hole from the short wall mount. The other hole should be covered by the mount if it’s not the same pattern as the short wall mount, so I wouldn’t worry about it as long as you seal it before installing the new mount.
Starlink doesn’t have any type of extender for these mounts. Might consider an aftermarket J Mount if you need some additional height over what the Starlink mounts can provide.
I have the rectangular dish. My roof has a low pitch with a large eave overhang. In regard to having minimal obstructions, the peak of the roof above the eaves works. Unless there is something I’m missing, it seems like lag bolting or through bolting the base that came with the dish would work fine. Is there some reason it would not work?
As long as the mast is within 5 degrees of vertical, the standard base should be ok. Are you planning to bolt it right to the roof shingles? A J Mount would be another option if you need an adjustable angle. Starlink’s Pivot Mount is another similar option.
I would temporarily try the standard base, weighed down with some sand bags or something, to make sure everything will work ok without errors.
Thank you for this. We purchased the Starlink pole mount and want to attach it to our wooden fence – in case we need to move it in the future instead of cementing it into the ground. What’s the best way to do this?
Probably some U-bolts or a pole clamp that you can pick up at a hardware store, with lag bolts right into the wooden fence post.
Hi we have house and granny flat, what can I do to improve the signal rang of the modem to cover both as signal range on covers about 5 metres at moment
You could try a mesh system:
https://www.starlinkhardware.com/starlink-mesh-nodes-mesh-networks-made-easy/
how do i remove the existing legged factory Starlink mount to replace it with a wall mount. i see a button on the pole just above the legs but it doesn’t appear to do anything. How do i get the mount off?
Press the button and pull up on the Starling dish mast.
Is there any way to install starlink on the back of a big rig where a typical satellite tv antenna for big rigs goes? Or any way to install it on a rig so it’s permanent? If I put it out at the truck stop it will get stolen.
Is it typically a vertical pole that TV antennas will mount to on the back? There are plenty of ways to do it, but if I had a description of the existing hardware on the rig or a picture as an example, I could recommend some ideas.
Thanks for the info! Any ideas on extending the distance of the cable from the dish to the modem and or how far away the modem can be from where you use it? Thanks
Starlink sells is 150ft cable that can replace the 75ft cable. The connections are unique to Starlink, so aftermarket options don’t exist. 150ft is the maximum cable distance. The router coverage depends on a lot of factors, such as the materials your house is made of. In a wide open area, you’ll get a signal from the router from quite a bit away. With a lot of walls, metal, or concrete, Wifi signals don’t travel as far.
We just purchased our system yesterday and it doesn’t look like we will be receiving our kit until sometime next year. Is it a possibility of getting the 150 ft cable in place of the 75 ft cable for an upcharge?
The kit comes with the 75 ft cable as standard, and you can order the extra 150 ft cable from the Starlink shop.
5 months ago was your original post. are you still waiting? Waiting a year is, WOW, a long time.
Just got our 2nd gen dishy and it’s looing like our best option is to perch it up in one of our trees. Would love and tips/insights into mounting system suggestions! The plan currently is to take off the top 1/4 of a smaller Ponderosa then attach a pole to the tree extending it up between 5-10 feet above the (cut) top of the tree. Would love any thoughts or guidance!
These links have some ideas that can get you started:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Starlink/comments/lq9398/final_tree_mount_plan_i_think/
https://www.reddit.com/r/Starlink/comments/l9lfp9/obstruction_advice_tree_mount/
https://www.reddit.com/r/Starlink/comments/kdhzgr/final_mount_plans/
just got a gen. 2 Starlink dish, and have had a tough time trying to find a Ridgeline Non-penetrating roof mount for it. Unfortunately, just sticking it on a pole, will not comply with my HOA. 🙁 Any ideas?
I’ve updated the article to remove the obsolete Starlink ridge line mount. I replaced it with an aftermarket option that can be installed at the ridge, and weighed down with blocks. It doesn’t come with a mast, so you’ll also need a J-Mount or some kind of mount to attach to the ridge line mount base plate. Here it is:
https://amzn.to/3yYdwuL
I believe FCC law protects you from any HOA interference for any receive antenna. I could be wrong but as a broadcast engineer this has always been my understanding for conventional satellite dishes and even TV antennas.
Hi Noah,
Thanks for all the great info. We just received our Starlink yesterday. We are super excited about installing it. We thought it was going to be easier but it’s not. We live in a very rural place. Our home is not surrounded by trees, cables or buildings. My son climbed the ladder yesterday to the side of the roof. The message said it was a decent spot. Not sure if it says great or better spot. We currently have HughesNet, we had an old pole the technician used that pole. (We had our previous satellite internet attached to a huge beam on our deck.) So I am wondering can we use that pole? What can we use to secure it? It’s not to low for the Starlink satellite? If we do decided to secure it on our roof we are thinking right at the peak. But should we use the mount it came with? We have an old satellite still stuck to our beam can we use any of that stuff to secure the Starlink one? We get some pretty good winds and some snow. Please any help would be awesome. I don’t want to send it back.
If you have a pole from a previous satellite dish, that should work. It depends on the diameter of the pole. If it’s around 1.5 inches, the Starlink mast should slide right in. You’ll need U-bolts or some other type of clamp to secure it. If the pole is a larger diameter, you’ll need the Starlink pipe adapter:
https://shop.starlink.com/products/us-consumer-mount-pipeadapter-gen2
This adapter will allow you to mount to poles up to 2.5 inches in diameter.
Hi Noah – thanks for all the information, very helpful. I got the SL confirmation email but now am struggling on where I’ll put it; we live in a very wooded area with lots of tree obstructions. Additionally have a metal roof. I think chimney install might be best, but I’m concerned about heat, smoke, etc. as we have a wood burning fireplace that we use in the winter. Have you heard of that being an issue before? If not chimney, our metal roof has several good spots without obstructions but I’m hesitant to drill into the roof… Thanks again.
I wouldn’t recommend the chimney mount unless it’s a brick chimney. The heat/smoke shouldn’t be an issue as long as you can get a good distance away, like what is pictured above.
For a metal roof, one option would be magnets. If you can source some strong magnets, several people have been able to use the standard base with the magnets attached to the legs:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Starlink/comments/v7fzet/diy_metal_roof_mount_magnets/
https://www.reddit.com/r/Starlink/comments/u83c9e/dish_just_arrived_held_in_place_by_magnets_till/
Magnets! That’s a great move, thanks again Noah.
We have a new metal roof also and I love this idea, thanks.
we also are starting a home build in a very heavily wooded area (actually a forest and we’re cleaning just enough trees to put the house in). Its will also have metal roof. In far north in the UP. magnets a interesting. I’ll have to brush up on my Physics to recall how heavy snow/ice could impact such a mount. That said, I’m more concerned with trying to determine if a SL would even work. I wish they could rent them so I could see if a good spot could be found, then shell out full price. Not sure the phone app will give us satisfactory confidence that the SL will work.
The cable that’s hooked to the “dish” should be removable. Having to drill a 1 3/8 “ holes all over the place to route the cable is unacceptable. I am an electrician by trade and have to do installs all over the place and if other companies have a huge end that’s required, the other end is always much smaller to make installs easier. You just pull the cable from the other direction, then plug the small connector into the dish. I believe this cost me an extra 4 hours time just drilling holes in top plates in my home with a hole saw because a hole saw will only drill 1 1/2 deep before bottoming out. There are 4 1/2” of wood on interior walls in most houses for top plates. Makes it almost impossible for such big holes ……get the point? Jeff hill
The cable that hooks into the dish end on the rectangular dishes is indeed removable.
How do I release my gen 2 square dish from the tripod? I want to put the pipe adapter on it however I cant seem to remove it from the tripod
There are a couple of spring tabs near the bottom of the mast that need to be pressed in to release the dish from the base.